We decided to go to North Wales this weekend for a bit of a change. We went up on Sat so we could get in a full day on Sun.
After the usual warm ups on the roadside face (the ramp, the edge problem, leo’s dyno and a thousand eliminates) we headed round the back for John to try the roof crack. He ended up getting powered out but was dead close to it.
Went over to Jerry’s roof with Ben. After a few lame attempts I did it. I tried this 3 or 4 years ago but got shut down so it was nice to come back and find it ok. Ben was trying Mr fantastic so I had a go. We were doing all the moves ok and had a few attempts at the link but it is long and tiring so we sacked it off in order to save some beans for later.
I had 10 mins on Pool of Bethesda. It is a one move 8a+, but the hard bit of the move is holding the swing, so really it’s a half a move 8a+. This half a move is hard, but didn’t feel miles away.
Before leaving I did the right hand finish to bus stop, which matches the edge and then rocks on to the slab rightwards, rather than going into the holds on Jerry’s problem. It’s a bit harder, but probably still 7c.
I moved over to sub society and surprised myself by doing it pretty fast. It is given 8a, but I spose it suited me being a pocket, a drop knee and some crimps (which I fully crimped). Nice.
We all went up to the barrel and did the minimum, then Ben and me did the groove (hard 7b+ now a hold has broken). He did it 2nd go, I managed to flash it. Next I tried the traverse. This is really nice, but quite long and I was starting to get powered out. I flashed to the very end but I was knackered and my foot fell off into a big puddle. Had a few more goes but just got pumped after a few moves. I want to go back and do this.
We fell off a few more things (Ben was really close to love pie) and got caught a hale storm (so hid under a roof). Then we sacked it home via a food stop.
Hoping to get back to wales soon as i really enjoyed it.
Monday, 10 March 2008
Wednesday, 5 March 2008
Went to kudos wall on Saturday which was cool. Havn't been there for ages. Did the usual problems (bigger spalsh, press, tsunami etc.) but couldn't do low left again. Then played on a bit of a project with Dan (he was close, doing all the moves). Had fun.
Sunday was spent with Dan, Bonjoy and Nige on a project over near eastwood. We did the easy right hand version (7a maby?) and got stuck in to the arete on the left.
After doing it from a high start (off a bock) i was psyched to do it off the floor. It added one (pretty) hard move. I fired through to the end and was on the last hard move when i ripped a little 2 finger crimp off it, making it loads harder. No one could do it then. Gutted!
Had a board session on Tues. Felt pretty good but didn't do anything of note. Leo was a beast and did a hard problem (board grade 5).
Had to go to the foundry this afternoon for the varsity comp. Shef beat Hallam. I managed to not fall off and won.
I also managed to drag myself up the classic disc problem. I remember being told about this ages ago and being amazed that anyone could have done it. It looks hard! Was well chuffed to do it.
Resting tomorrow for sure.
Sunday was spent with Dan, Bonjoy and Nige on a project over near eastwood. We did the easy right hand version (7a maby?) and got stuck in to the arete on the left.
After doing it from a high start (off a bock) i was psyched to do it off the floor. It added one (pretty) hard move. I fired through to the end and was on the last hard move when i ripped a little 2 finger crimp off it, making it loads harder. No one could do it then. Gutted!
Had a board session on Tues. Felt pretty good but didn't do anything of note. Leo was a beast and did a hard problem (board grade 5).
Had to go to the foundry this afternoon for the varsity comp. Shef beat Hallam. I managed to not fall off and won.
I also managed to drag myself up the classic disc problem. I remember being told about this ages ago and being amazed that anyone could have done it. It looks hard! Was well chuffed to do it.
Resting tomorrow for sure.
Tuesday, 26 February 2008
font 5 finally
The last couple of weeks have been busy.
Had team training a couple of weeks back. Saturday at the Works and Sunday at boulder UK. Ian and Jamie had set us a mock up world cup (5 qualifiers and 4 semi-finals) which we tried 5 mins on and 5 mins off. This was hard but really good fun. They even set a problem on pockets (uuum nice!).
Friday was the last round of the climbing works league. I found it hard to get psyched and climbed pretty badly. Never mind. It was good fun tho.
Just had a session on our board. It went well. I managed to climb "throw in the dowel", my first grade 5 on the board. This is the 3rd ascent after Leo and Dan. Dead chuffed!!
I also managed to run my ipod through the washing machine the other day. Was gutted, but after drying it out for a couple of days it works fine again!
Had team training a couple of weeks back. Saturday at the Works and Sunday at boulder UK. Ian and Jamie had set us a mock up world cup (5 qualifiers and 4 semi-finals) which we tried 5 mins on and 5 mins off. This was hard but really good fun. They even set a problem on pockets (uuum nice!).
Friday was the last round of the climbing works league. I found it hard to get psyched and climbed pretty badly. Never mind. It was good fun tho.
Just had a session on our board. It went well. I managed to climb "throw in the dowel", my first grade 5 on the board. This is the 3rd ascent after Leo and Dan. Dead chuffed!!
I also managed to run my ipod through the washing machine the other day. Was gutted, but after drying it out for a couple of days it works fine again!
Wednesday, 13 February 2008
Long Day
Was going to go to the wall today after lectures as it had been a while since i had done any real training. However i got persuaded to head out to the plantation.
Had a potter about and managed to do Boston Mess from matched on the lowest undercut. Did Deliverance and Brad Pit again, and spotted Andy as he got really close to Brad Pit.
Stood below Carless Torque and got psyched for it again. It is amazing. It was too warm and we only had 2 mats so didn't try it.
After this i went to the climbing works. Tried some of the Earl's problems (these are hard) and went on the campus board. Finished off with some fitness/PE.
Had a potter about and managed to do Boston Mess from matched on the lowest undercut. Did Deliverance and Brad Pit again, and spotted Andy as he got really close to Brad Pit.
Stood below Carless Torque and got psyched for it again. It is amazing. It was too warm and we only had 2 mats so didn't try it.
After this i went to the climbing works. Tried some of the Earl's problems (these are hard) and went on the campus board. Finished off with some fitness/PE.
Font
Anyone who tries to tell you that Font isn’t the best bouldering venue in the world is wrong (i think).
Went out there with a strong team (including Dan and Gangle amongst others) after exams for some chilling and some dispatching. It was amazing.
Day 1)
Nightmare getting there. Arrived late afternoon after about 2 hours sleep in an F1. Felt rough but we all got so exited and ran around trying everything we saw at Bas Cuvier. Had a few attempts at La Balance. Me and Gangle got kind of shut down. Dan did it fast.
Went out there with a strong team (including Dan and Gangle amongst others) after exams for some chilling and some dispatching. It was amazing.
Day 1)
Nightmare getting there. Arrived late afternoon after about 2 hours sleep in an F1. Felt rough but we all got so exited and ran around trying everything we saw at Bas Cuvier. Had a few attempts at La Balance. Me and Gangle got kind of shut down. Dan did it fast.
K-Unit on La Balance
Day 2)
Psyched. Blue sky again.
Had a few attempts at Karma in the raging sun. Didn’t get close at all and felt pretty rubbish. Arms were not firing. Dan did Misericorde in about 10 mins and Gangle was really close but had to throw in the towel to save skin.
Misericorde
I think it was today that we went to UBIK as well. Dan and Keith had a play in the sit start moves, then Dan said “I will have a quick go from standing” 3rd go he was standing on top! Amazing!
UBIK
Day 3)
Psyched. Blue sky again!
Went with Chris Schulte over to Hip Hop (8a+) which he wanted to look at. It was right in the sun and really hot but looks like a cool problem. Then went and did Sale Gosse (as did Dan) and Jet Set. Then did arabesque and should have done eclipse, but my arms had given up.Tom was knocked out by some viscous cold and couldn’t climb but he still came out and gave out beta and psyche. Good man.
Day 4)
Psyched. Blue sky again!!
Cuvier once again. Settled the score with Le Balance, and did it again without the chip (given 7c+/8a but no harder than with the chip to be honest). Went to look at Neverland, but some weird people were filming some Sinbad style film/drama. Were loads of weird men in capes with swords and a camera crew and I was told to go away!
Le Balance
Dan and Gangle did big boss. My arms were tired and i couldn't do it. Moved over to Haute Tension (in the raging sun). Gangle crushed it while me and Dan had to find a new sequence. But did it in the end. I was mega chuffed as it is very un-ned. The crux is pulling on a little crimp. Nice.
Day 5)
Psyched. Blue sky again!!!
Felt beaten, skin was thin and really couldn't warm up. Gangle suggested we have a go on Neverland as I had been babbling on about trying it since we arrived. After 20 mins not knowing what to do, we worked out a sweet sequence of knee bars and clamping. Felt really close to doing it but the key knee bar was tearing my knee up. It hurt too much to try. Was going to sack it off, but Tom suggested tying a sock round my knee over the graze to pad it out a bit.
The sweaty sock worked, and i grovelled over the top. Sweet. Keith got some footage. If its any good you might get to see it one day.
Gangle
Wednesday, 9 January 2008
Sunday, 6 January 2008
wow
Drove up from leicester to Stanage today with some of the Leicester crowd. The weather was looking good which was a bonus.
After warming up i decided to have a quick go on deliverance. First go was a rubbish ranging go. On the second go i committed to the foothold and got the jug ok. It's nice to have done this as it means i don't have to try it again!
Shaggy turned up and quickly did Boston Mess (i fell off the last move, tickling the top). Now we were warm we could get stuck in to the Joker. We were both close to campusing it (hand fully over the jug, but forgetting to hold on) but somehow couldn't comit to the foot on method.
Ryan and Katy arrived and after messing about on a few other things we got stuck into Carless Torque (while Shaggy stayed behind and did Ben's extension - effort). Ryan was crusing the bottom (crux) over an over again but messing up the top. After a big lob from the last move (which was fine) he chilled out and did it easily. This was only his second session on it!
After warming up i decided to have a quick go on deliverance. First go was a rubbish ranging go. On the second go i committed to the foothold and got the jug ok. It's nice to have done this as it means i don't have to try it again!
Shaggy turned up and quickly did Boston Mess (i fell off the last move, tickling the top). Now we were warm we could get stuck in to the Joker. We were both close to campusing it (hand fully over the jug, but forgetting to hold on) but somehow couldn't comit to the foot on method.
Ryan and Katy arrived and after messing about on a few other things we got stuck into Carless Torque (while Shaggy stayed behind and did Ben's extension - effort). Ryan was crusing the bottom (crux) over an over again but messing up the top. After a big lob from the last move (which was fine) he chilled out and did it easily. This was only his second session on it!
This is one of the most inspiring things i have seen for a long time. Amazing effort.
I slowly made progress until i was getting stood up on the arete and reaching out right to the rail, but messing my feet up. Not to worry. The moves are very good and i can't wait to get on it again. I never thought i would be able to get off the ground!
I slowly made progress until i was getting stood up on the arete and reaching out right to the rail, but messing my feet up. Not to worry. The moves are very good and i can't wait to get on it again. I never thought i would be able to get off the ground!
(Here is Big Malc doing the deed back in 2001
)
Now back to training and revising until after exams....
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
