Tales from Wales

We decided to go to North Wales this weekend for a bit of a change. We went up on Sat so we could get in a full day on Sun.

After the usual warm ups on the roadside face (the ramp, the edge problem, leo’s dyno and a thousand eliminates) we headed round the back for John to try the roof crack. He ended up getting powered out but was dead close to it.

Went over to Jerry’s roof with Ben. After a few lame attempts I did it. I tried this 3 or 4 years ago but got shut down so it was nice to come back and find it ok. Ben was trying Mr fantastic so I had a go. We were doing all the moves ok and had a few attempts at the link but it is long and tiring so we sacked it off in order to save some beans for later.

I had 10 mins on Pool of Bethesda. It is a one move 8a+, but the hard bit of the move is holding the swing, so really it’s a half a move 8a+. This half a move is hard, but didn’t feel miles away.
Before leaving I did the right hand finish to bus stop, which matches the edge and then rocks on to the slab rightwards, rather than going into the holds on Jerry’s problem. It’s a bit harder, but probably still 7c.

I moved over to sub society and surprised myself by doing it pretty fast. It is given 8a, but I spose it suited me being a pocket, a drop knee and some crimps (which I fully crimped). Nice.

We all went up to the barrel and did the minimum, then Ben and me did the groove (hard 7b+ now a hold has broken). He did it 2nd go, I managed to flash it. Next I tried the traverse. This is really nice, but quite long and I was starting to get powered out. I flashed to the very end but I was knackered and my foot fell off into a big puddle. Had a few more goes but just got pumped after a few moves. I want to go back and do this.

We fell off a few more things (Ben was really close to love pie) and got caught a hale storm (so hid under a roof). Then we sacked it home via a food stop.

Hoping to get back to wales soon as i really enjoyed it.