I had monday off as i was pretty tired from the weekend, but managed to head out on tuesday evening (after an exam) for a night session. Andy has a new lighting set up which worked well. Famous Grouse went down from standing (had no intention of trying the sitter) which is someting i have wanted to do for a while. Stopped after this as i wanted to save some skin for Tuesday.
Tuesday:
Got a text from Dave Barrans. He was going to try 8 Ball (after crushing Full Power very fast last year). This is good as we (the Masonator and me) were planning on going on FP anyway.
Dave B was looking really smooth but not quite getting the sidepull in the right place (the crux) on the link. I am sure he will have it soon enough.
I had a few rubbish attempts, but warmed into it (it was our warm up). Dave showed me some short mans beta, which the flexi hips seemed to agree with, but it still felt hard.
Felt like i was running out of steam so decided to have a last go. Fortunatly it all came togther and felt ok (as they do...) but only after being shouted at a lot to remind me what to do! Thanks guys.
Finished off on Marks Roof (right hand finish - 7c), a nice move off a small ripple.
Probably resting tomorrow then leeds wall comp on friday, followed by some yorkshire action.
5 comments:
effort beast
thanks beast.
Training going well?
Hope things are not too boring...
Awesome effort fella!
What is this short mans beta (not that you are particularly short...)? I have given this a few goes but no cigarelo.
May have a dig on saturday.
Cheers
Ed
Cheers Ed. How are you? Keeping strong i presume?
Short mans beta:
When on RH sidepull and LH highest ripple, there is a hard move to reach the good guppy on the arete. If you are little you can put your left toe on the low dissolved crimp which makes the move static.
I found that a bit too bunched, so went up with my left hand to a small intermediate under the good guppy, then put left heel on.
Also it helps at the top if you can turn your left hand to an undercut/sidepull rather than hugging your way up (like moony is doing on stick it).
Hope that helps. Good luck.
Ned
well fingers seem to be heading in the right direction, getting worse at one armers, or atleast it felt that way yesterday, which is annoying, but probably due to the lack of volume on the arms climbing. weighted pull ups again today.
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