Sunday 16 December 2007

weekend etc.

Friday was the 3rd round of the Leeds wall comp. Shaggy and Sugdon were not there and team tall (Gangle and Adam) were also absent. This meant that Ben/Dave had not set anything too hard so i managed to not a fall off (and win).

One of the easier problems was the coolest thing ever! Starting standing on a ledge, you had to reach out to dangling hold on a piece of cord. You then did a gladiators style swing over to a volume with some edges on it to an easier top out. Amazing.


After that we crashed at Ben and Rach's, and in the morning it was off to Earl (via their new board which is BIG). Earl was freezing. You couldn't stand still. You had to be moving constantly or you got too cold. Ben was close to a new 7c+/8a of Dunning's but we gave in in the end.



After getting home i was keen. I had been talking about 1 armers with Dan the other day so decided try a new exercise. It is a pyramid set or assisted 1 armers. 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 with 2-3 mins rest between each set, changing the assistance as you need to.

On Sunday i went up to the school with Paul and Dave to do a rings workout. This was hard work but fun. I tried to hold back a little as we were planning on heading out on Monday.

Monday:
Went to moorside with a strong team to try Superbloc (E8 7A / highball 8A). This problem is amazing.
After sorting the sequence Ry was getting past the crux but tiring. The rest of us were close to the crux move (catching a big move to a small pocket) but we ran out of steam. I am keen to get back on this as it is one of the best problems i have tried in the peak. After getting home i went on the fingerboard for a short session which went well (and turned into a long session).

Congratulations to Ed. He climbed Zoo York on Saturday. Very impressive.






1 comment:

Unknown said...

Cheers Ned. You have probably seen it already, but that "Consumed" DVD by Dan Honeyman and co. has the footage of Miles' first ascent, but I'm sure you guys have sussed out your sequence.

It looks inspiring for sure. Spoon had a good few goes last year without success, so certainly no pushover.

More amazing weather this week....