keeping busy...

Have been busy and then on holiday so no updates for a while.
This is what I have been up to since May.

Dan and I developed a newish venue on peak limestone and did some sweet problems up to and including a couple of 8a’s. One of which is a link up of a couple of 7c problems via a butch move, and the other is a big move off a terrible crimp. We also did an amazing 7c called candy kaned which features sloper slapping up a vague prow as well as a bunch of other cool problems.

After this we went to beginners wall and did Neil’s wall from sitting (Dan flashed the stand up then flashed the sitter, leaving me flailing but I eventually did the sitter after a while). Next was recreational violence – polish dave’s big dyno thing. We saw some other holds on the left and climbed it. We thought it could be 8a? Who knows. Its fun!

Next we started to try the low roof across the road from beginners wall. Ru had been trying this via a savage crimpy sequence, but the dream team (Dan and myself) found some new beta which made it a bit more doable, and a bit more fun. We were close to linking it that session but had to go back for it. Finally on my 3rd session it went down with Dan doing it the session after. Its called Mutton Busting due to the sheep bones scattered at the base of the crag and is probably 8a/+?

After this we got stuck in to the highball groove to the left. After abbing it and pulling off loads of loose rock Dan dispatched and I did it a bit later with a slightly different sequence. Its called Mint Sauce and is probably about 7c – but pretty highball.

A bad pic of mutton busting.

A bad pic of rec. violenc

Neverland

Keith did some filming while we were out in Font. He made this little video of a little problem at bas cuvier. It took us quite a while to work out this sequence!

neverland

Anyway, now its time to get back to revision...

Hall

The 18th of April was the first round of the world cup in Austria. There were 140 people registered to compete making this the biggest world cup to date.

We headed into isolation at midday ish then sat around for ages getting psyched out by how strong everyone else was. Croxall and the Watsonator were lucky and were out early after only an hour or so. The rest of us had to wait for ages (Roddy having something like an 8 hour wait!)

I warmed up and felt strong. My skin was quite good and I felt like I could pull pretty hard (although not as hard as most of the beasts there!).

I was called and went to climb and was rubbish. I can’t put my finger on why but I was missing loads of tricks and being stupid. I never felt like I could get into a position to pull hard which is really frustrating.
On the plus side (although not really!) the others struggled a bit too. This made me feel a bit better as maybe it was a style thing rather than me just being rubbish. Only Gaz made the semis.

The final was impressive. Daniel woods is probably the strongest guy I have ever seen. His strength was amazing and really inspiring, but his balance, footwork and flexibility were all a bit behind! That didn’t bother him as he crushed his way to 3rd.

After the comp the party kicked off. It was a good laugh and cheered us all up after climbing badly! After a late night and an early start we got back to england and i went straight to bed.

CWIF

Ed told me to get this updated as he needs something to do at work… Hi Ed!

The climbing works had a nice comp the other week. It was good fun with some hard probems.

I managed to squeeze into the semi final, but only did one problem (close on 1 other) so ended up in 10th place. I was pleased to make the semis as it was good preparation for the coming internationals. I felt fit and was recovering well between attempts, but the problems were dirty hard so I couldn’t do them. Gangle was a beast and finished 6th despite claiming to be rubbish! Smitton was a beast and won, beating Earl and Wouter (the Dutch champion) in the final. Very impressive.

After the comp I ate a raw burger and didn’t get ill which was an achievement, then went to hang with Dan and the strong aussies.

goooose

This weekend was the BUSA bouldering comp (for dirty students). Me, Varian and Lily had been asked to do it, as we did ok last year. I was a bit unsure at first as last year was really busy and badly organised/set, but Sharma was lecturing afterwards so it seemed like a good plan to go.

Taz and Zippy had set the problems – with Taz being in charge of the harder ones on the comp wall. This is good as he sets good hard problems, rather than minging hard problems. A couple were hard (7b/+? – i dunno) and didn’t get done by many people. Team Sheffield won, with Lily wining the girls comp and me and Dan getting 1st and 2nd place in the males. Dan was kind enough to be the beta monkey once he had dropped a problem, so found the way on the harder problems giving me a good chance of flashing them. Luckily this worked and I flashed them all. I think a couple of them were pretty hard so I was pleased with this. Hopefully I can keep hold of this luck/form for the next couple of months as there are some big comps coming up which I am dead exited about.

After the comp we messed about on the “training” board where Dan fully burned me off and then went to the Sharma lecture. This was ok, but he repeated a lot of the stuff from king lines so was a bit tedious by the end (although I hate to say it! – he is still a hero).

I rested on Sunday and went out on Monday with Dave Mason. He is still injured but getting better and seemed happy to be out spotting and brushing but was clearly frustrated to not be climbing. The physio has said he can probably climb in 3 weeks or so. Good news.

We went to turnignstone edge as I wanted to try River of Life (goose). Unfortunately true to form it was wet but I had a few goes anyway, doing all but the crux move. I am keen to go back for this. It’s good.We moved on to Salle Goose (via Gibbon Swing – a really nice 7a or 7a+ slap). SG is a really nice line with nice holds. On the first go I got set up for the slap with feet in the wrong place and was no where near. After figuring out the bottom moves a bit better (where you put your right foot is crucial) I had a few goes at the slap. This felt hard so I decided to try and lock the move instead to see how close I could get.

Luckily I am lanky so could reach the top by standing up really high and locking rather than slapping – cool as I am bad at slaps. Did it after a few goes falling tickling the top.

Ben turned up and we went to the Secret Dyno. This is a really nice problem that only Jon and Neil have done (as far as I know). I think they gave it 7B+ which seems fair. It is like an easier version of Haute Tension at Cuvier Rampart, with the set up being harder but the end being easier. The top holds were damp but we both did it ok once we had sorted the sequence.

Dave got some photos and a video on his phone, hopefully he will work out how it works and send them to me so I can get them up here!

After this we went to Eastwood. Ben had a few goes on the traverse and then got stuck into westwood/hats for youths, coming very close to getting the slap move. I did Hats for Weasels in a few goes (felt about 7b+?) then did HFY from standing, via the crimp (like Simpson did) and tried it from sitting but couldn’t quite get established into the standing position. I think once I get into the last move I will do it, but it is really hard to get there. Involving a really deep lock and a hard cut loose move.

Anyway, enough rambling for now. am back in Leicester for a bit so won’t be getting out so much, but will be training more.

Also, Pete’s new thing at burbage looks well scary. The guy is a beast. Effort.

Tales from Wales

We decided to go to North Wales this weekend for a bit of a change. We went up on Sat so we could get in a full day on Sun.

After the usual warm ups on the roadside face (the ramp, the edge problem, leo’s dyno and a thousand eliminates) we headed round the back for John to try the roof crack. He ended up getting powered out but was dead close to it.

Went over to Jerry’s roof with Ben. After a few lame attempts I did it. I tried this 3 or 4 years ago but got shut down so it was nice to come back and find it ok. Ben was trying Mr fantastic so I had a go. We were doing all the moves ok and had a few attempts at the link but it is long and tiring so we sacked it off in order to save some beans for later.

I had 10 mins on Pool of Bethesda. It is a one move 8a+, but the hard bit of the move is holding the swing, so really it’s a half a move 8a+. This half a move is hard, but didn’t feel miles away.
Before leaving I did the right hand finish to bus stop, which matches the edge and then rocks on to the slab rightwards, rather than going into the holds on Jerry’s problem. It’s a bit harder, but probably still 7c.

I moved over to sub society and surprised myself by doing it pretty fast. It is given 8a, but I spose it suited me being a pocket, a drop knee and some crimps (which I fully crimped). Nice.

We all went up to the barrel and did the minimum, then Ben and me did the groove (hard 7b+ now a hold has broken). He did it 2nd go, I managed to flash it. Next I tried the traverse. This is really nice, but quite long and I was starting to get powered out. I flashed to the very end but I was knackered and my foot fell off into a big puddle. Had a few more goes but just got pumped after a few moves. I want to go back and do this.

We fell off a few more things (Ben was really close to love pie) and got caught a hale storm (so hid under a roof). Then we sacked it home via a food stop.

Hoping to get back to wales soon as i really enjoyed it.

Went to kudos wall on Saturday which was cool. Havn't been there for ages. Did the usual problems (bigger spalsh, press, tsunami etc.) but couldn't do low left again. Then played on a bit of a project with Dan (he was close, doing all the moves). Had fun.

Sunday was spent with Dan, Bonjoy and Nige on a project over near eastwood. We did the easy right hand version (7a maby?) and got stuck in to the arete on the left.

After doing it from a high start (off a bock) i was psyched to do it off the floor. It added one (pretty) hard move. I fired through to the end and was on the last hard move when i ripped a little 2 finger crimp off it, making it loads harder. No one could do it then. Gutted!

Had a board session on Tues. Felt pretty good but didn't do anything of note. Leo was a beast and did a hard problem (board grade 5).

Had to go to the foundry this afternoon for the varsity comp. Shef beat Hallam. I managed to not fall off and won.

I also managed to drag myself up the classic disc problem. I remember being told about this ages ago and being amazed that anyone could have done it. It looks hard! Was well chuffed to do it.

Resting tomorrow for sure.