weekend etc.

Friday was the 3rd round of the Leeds wall comp. Shaggy and Sugdon were not there and team tall (Gangle and Adam) were also absent. This meant that Ben/Dave had not set anything too hard so i managed to not a fall off (and win).

One of the easier problems was the coolest thing ever! Starting standing on a ledge, you had to reach out to dangling hold on a piece of cord. You then did a gladiators style swing over to a volume with some edges on it to an easier top out. Amazing.


After that we crashed at Ben and Rach's, and in the morning it was off to Earl (via their new board which is BIG). Earl was freezing. You couldn't stand still. You had to be moving constantly or you got too cold. Ben was close to a new 7c+/8a of Dunning's but we gave in in the end.



After getting home i was keen. I had been talking about 1 armers with Dan the other day so decided try a new exercise. It is a pyramid set or assisted 1 armers. 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 with 2-3 mins rest between each set, changing the assistance as you need to.

On Sunday i went up to the school with Paul and Dave to do a rings workout. This was hard work but fun. I tried to hold back a little as we were planning on heading out on Monday.

Monday:
Went to moorside with a strong team to try Superbloc (E8 7A / highball 8A). This problem is amazing.
After sorting the sequence Ry was getting past the crux but tiring. The rest of us were close to the crux move (catching a big move to a small pocket) but we ran out of steam. I am keen to get back on this as it is one of the best problems i have tried in the peak. After getting home i went on the fingerboard for a short session which went well (and turned into a long session).

Congratulations to Ed. He climbed Zoo York on Saturday. Very impressive.

fully full

I had monday off as i was pretty tired from the weekend, but managed to head out on tuesday evening (after an exam) for a night session. Andy has a new lighting set up which worked well. Famous Grouse went down from standing (had no intention of trying the sitter) which is someting i have wanted to do for a while. Stopped after this as i wanted to save some skin for Tuesday.

Tuesday:
Got a text from Dave Barrans. He was going to try 8 Ball (after crushing Full Power very fast last year). This is good as we (the Masonator and me) were planning on going on FP anyway.

Dave B was looking really smooth but not quite getting the sidepull in the right place (the crux) on the link. I am sure he will have it soon enough.

I had a few rubbish attempts, but warmed into it (it was our warm up). Dave showed me some short mans beta, which the flexi hips seemed to agree with, but it still felt hard.

Felt like i was running out of steam so decided to have a last go. Fortunatly it all came togther and felt ok (as they do...) but only after being shouted at a lot to remind me what to do! Thanks guys.

Finished off on Marks Roof (right hand finish - 7c), a nice move off a small ripple.

Probably resting tomorrow then leeds wall comp on friday, followed by some yorkshire action.

last week

Tried to have a session on the board on Tuesday but it didn't happen. We just felt rubbish. My arms felt dead and wouldn't wake up. Not a happy bunny.

Decided to chill for the rest of the week as i had a lot of work due in and I just wasn't at all motivated to train (which is very unusual for me).

Friday was the climbing works comp. Percy and Sam had made things a bit more tricky than before which nice. Keith was looking very strong (as ever) but wasn't in the comp. Dave won again and Jordan, Gaz and Tony all did well.

I was rubbish and dropped loads that i shouldn't have. I am not used to having so many days off!

Saturday was spent training at the new wall in Stockport.
Sunday was spent in Preston running, talking about important stuff and doing circuits (30 seconds on and 3o seconds of on press ups, sit ups campussing etc.). This was a really fun day, but pretty tiring.

Today was spend feeling stiff, but keen to train. Also the weather is looking good for the week. Will hopefully get out and get things done.

half full?

Rested on friday as i felt pretty tired from thurdsay's session and didn't eat properly afterwards (stupid).

It lashed it down on Friday night, but on Saturday morning i was woken up by Dave ringing to tell me that Gardoms south was dry. We went there and met Rhys and Dan.
Dave flashed Suavito, and did Barry Sheen quickly - good effort.

We couldn't decide what to do next, but since conditions were pretty good (the wind was freezing) we thought it would be a good plan to try something sloping.

Of we went to the other end of Gardoms (which is sheltered, so wasn't totally dry) to have a look at Full Power. This is something that i have wanted to get stuck into for ages, but the few times i have pulled on, it has felt too hard.

This time we just got stuck in and worked out the moves. After getting good sequence we started going for the link. I fired through to the move into the stand up a few times on the trot, and called it a day. Didn't want to loose any more skin. Will hopefully be back on it in the week when it has totally dried out.

I wanted to train in the evening, but needed to rest the fingers. A text off Foley reminded me about lock offs. Busted out some assisted 1 armers then lock offs for the first time in about a year. Also closed the CoC no. 2 again. Feeling good at this. Will have to start trying to rep it.

Sunday was spent working followed by the fingerboard. Felt good, had to get the extra 5kg plate.

Didn't go to the works on Wednesday in the end - Dave tweaked a finger (its fine now) so he rested. I had a (really) good fingerboard session in the afternoon, and headed down to ponds forge in the evening for a core training workshop.

The difficulty team had organised a session with Nick Baker, a beast who is on the GB diving team (so needs to have a steely core and good flexibility). Some of us boulderers tagged along too.

As you can see it was quite entertaining...

Katy was enjoying herself anyway!

He showed us various core exercises and stretches etc. to allow us to move better. All was going well until he spied me (i was hiding at the back, trying to blend in with the white walls), and made me demonstrate some things to the others, as apparently i am quite flexible...

Not funny.

It was a good session, but i still prefer my front lever/scorpion kick/weighted sit-up sessions.

Lucy's report on it...
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/News.aspx?id=2274

Gaz's version of events...

http://www.gazparryclimbing.blogspot.com/

Thursday evening was a campus/fitness session at the works. The others (Dave, Dan and Tony) were looking strong. Campussing went well, until i got a blister on my finger and fitness went well (apart from looking like a punter falling off easy problems).

I think i am over the lurgy almost fully now. Brilliant. Having an easy week probably did me some good.

Resting tomorrow, then out at the weekend or indoors if/when it rains.

unflappable?

Went to the Slipstones on sunday.
This is a cool crag. The rock is good (for grit) with no big crystals/pebbles. Thought it might be wet, but the wind did its job and conditions were really good.
Dan showed me around, and we did some classics (sulky little boys, lay by arete etc.), then spotted him on some hard stuff and finally did sidewinder from sitting as is got dark. Was a nice day, but not the most productive!

Foundry round 2 was yesterday. No one was feeling particularly sparky (Katy and Tony got back from the Kranj comp at 2am and Ben was suffering from it being a monday!) but there were some good problems. Tony (Fritz) and Ben looked strong but each fumbled a problem a few times. I managed to wobble my way up some problems and not fall off as many times, so i finished first, with Tony in 2nd and Ben 3rd.

http://www.cragx.com/climbing-news/index.php?id=56

Resting today, then fitness session at the works with the Masonator on Wed. I am keen to hear all about his Swiss trip.

Probably 75% human and only 25% snot now, which is an improvement. Will hopefully be 100% by wed.

man flu...

Board session early in week. Felt rubbish and could feel the beginings of a cold so stopped early. Felt pretty bad for the next few days so took it really easy - i hate doing this!
Fingers felt strong but big muscles were not happy and just acted as a wobbly weight belt.

Was going to go to Northumberland with Dan this weekend, but the forecast for Saturday was rubbish. Will go to Yorkshire tomorrow as it should be dry.

I would have loved to do the Plywood masters today. Its a really fun comp. If it was a week a go i would have done it for sure, but i didn't want to mission up there and not feel on form. Also death cough + breathing your body weight in chalk probably isn't the best idea. Gutted.

results

Just saw the results from the works comp:

http://www.climbingworks.com/Html/EventsAndResults/Climbing-Works-Comp-Results-2007.htm

Not bad I suppose.

(Can no one spell my name, even when it is written in front of them?!)

board...

Last night was a board session. Didn't feel great but managed some good moves, and i am definatly feeling stronger than when the board was born (about 2 months ago). Put the board on its stabilizers (to make it 40deg rather than 50deg) and did some circuits. I thought i was feeling reasonably fit at the moment, but apparently not! Am keen to work power endurance more. Finished off with some index finger and ring finger monos. Uuuum!

big and green

Spent Wed. afternoon at froggatt, then went to burbage west after dark. Dan and Ryan were climbing well (Ryan crushing Blazin 48's,and Dan getting really close until ripping a chunk from his finger). We moved across to Westworld, which we should have done. How can you get your whole hand on a jug ,time after time, but not hold it?.... Next time.

Had a good time despite climbing nothing!


Thursday was a busy day in Uni followed by some hard resting.

Friday was the first round of the Climbing works bouldering league. The french had sent Jacky to set some hard problems, and Ludo to do them all and put us to shame (it was good to see Ludo climb, as i have always thought he is a bit of a hero). However, Ludo clearly hadn't been to Jamming school so didn't clean up.
Dave Barrans (http://www.davebarrans.blogspot.com/) (fresh from placing 8th at the last round of the world cup) flashed the lot, apart from the beefy roof, which only Ludo did. I only managed to make one silly mistake which is unusual for me, and think i may have done ok overall (not seen the results yet).

Went out on limestone on Saturday with Darkhorse and Kev. They wanted a guided tour of that naughty crag. Darkhorse has been before, and thought he had done the hulk, which is a good effort seeing as he did it 2nd go. It turns out he did "in bulk" - the 8a eliminate by accident. Oops!

Warmed up at Rubicon, where we saw Dobbin who was sooo close to tsunami.... again. I can't wait til he does this, it is long overdue!
D had a few goes on Tsunami, then made a casual ascent of low right.

(this is some chinless fool on the kudos wall back in the summer)

Over the road,Tit for Tat went down for D and me, matching the sloper first, then no matching. Probably both 7c+, just that one is harder than the other (especially when done static...!).

Next up was the Hulk. I always found this really hard, probably because i wasn't strong enough previously, and i tend to go when it is hot. This time it felt ok. I am really pleased to have climbed this shiny piece of history.

Now the weather has gone bad, but it looks like it could improve by the weekend.

velcro rock

Was going to go on the board yesterday, but ended up having a fingerboard session with Dave M. Didn't feel 100%, but did ok.

Had a long day at uni today, but rushed home so i could head to burbage with Dan. We wanted to try/do Darkstar - an unrepeated Welford 7c+. It is pretty high.

We arrived just as the sun was setting, and busted out the head torches. After warming up on Guplets on toast (a 7b+, also of welfords), we got stuck in. Conditions were amazing.

Dan did it quickly, and i was left falling from the crux endlessly! (i want to go back for this problem, it is really good). We packed up and went off to burbage west, where i managed Western Eyes (not so scary when you can't see the death boulder below) and Dan fell up West Side Story. We went back to Sheffield and had a short session on the board.



Dave is off to Swiss on Wednesday with a strong team. I am very jealous!


This is a totally unrelated pic of Lowrider at Stanage. You should all go and try this.

its spitting...

Friday was the leeds wall comp. Ben Meeks and Dave Mason set the problems which were nice and basic, and really good. Smith and Sugden were looking strong (as ever) and came 1st and 2nd, while i was left floundering in 3rd. Had a really good time and will be back for the next one for sure.

Today, headed out to Rivelin (after sleeping in), to meet Gangle and Adam. It was spitting a bit, but they both dispached Ry's Master Kush (nice work). Dave and I had a few goes but never really got going before we decided to head to the works, out of the rain.

Warmed up on the comp wall, then went round the new yellow circuit. Managed most of the problems, but skin got really sore so sacked off some of the more crimpy ones. Bumped into a few people who I havn't seen for a while, which was nice.

Was a good day. Don't feel that worked but my skin is sore. Probably training tomorrow.

fitnessless

Headed to the Works today with the mighty Mason for some fitness work (am keen to get fitter as it will help loads in comps).

Started with some campussing, but neither of us felt great. Finished it anyway.

Then chose 20 problems up to about 7b+ and went round them all as fast as possible (limiting rest between problems). Managed most of them, but it was a fight! Percy and Sam had been putting up a new yellow circuit (6c? - 7c?), so tried some of those until sore skin told us to stop.

Overall, quite a good little sesion. Probably rest tomorrow, and get some Uni work done.

board...

Had a session on our board today. This is always hard work (it being 50 degrees with BAD footholds) but so much fun. I was OK, but not great. Think i am still recovering from the weekend.

Dave Mason, and the darkhorse were present, and on form despite it being their second session of the day.

Will be campussing and doing circuits at the works tomorrow.

bashing boulders

Time to chill a bit after training with the british team.

Thursday and Friday at the climbing works (beasting ourselves), Saturday at The Craggy Island Boulder Bash and Sunday at the first round of the SIBL.

Managed to crimp my way up a few problems at Craggy, and win myself some money which is nice.


Busting a move...

Full results to follow.